Feb 25 2010
Frick +Diavola, an accidental pairing
I’ve been to a few wine pairings in my day. French Laundry, Gary Danko, Le Bernadine, Guy Savoy, Alain Ducasse. In fact for my 16th birthday my father brought me to Lutece (R.I.P.) and if that doesn’t raise my tasting creed here – nothing will. Which brings me to the subject. A remarkable experience that happened recently. An unexpected, almost accidental pairing that is quite possibly of the best foodwineGasm, I’ve ever had in my life.
It is this: Frick Grenache + the Cicciona Pizza from Diavola in Geyserville. I’d like to think I’m a good writer. However, words escape me right now. It seems nearly impossible that pen and paper can ever do justice to my experience. So, I’ll do my best to describe what happened on one glorious Saturday afternoon in Sonoma County.
Wait, let’set the backdrop. It’s been raining hard for a good seven days. By the grace of God there is a break in the rain. My tasting partner and I hit the road. We head South and East from Dutcher Creek. Each of us trying to one up one another on the tasting road with a “secret gem”. That being a wine, or a winery that you have never tried or heard of before. It’s sort of a game. Show me your secret spots, I’ll show you mine. Well, Bill, my tasting partner, he won the minute we walked in the door at Frick (http://www.frickwinery.com/). So much so, that I’m not even going to mention any of the other wineries we stopped at. It was a slam-dunker. First of all, I looove dogs; second, I’m a freak about offbeat varietals; and third, I REVERE all things French. Rhone varietals are not necessarily offbeat but defiantly not de rigeur to Dry Creek Valley. Bill Frick is pouring. I like that. Nobody knows more about their wines than the winemaker himself. Obviously, you gotta grow what your land will yield, but the Fricks have built a nice little niche here. I’d call them THE Rhone Ranger of Dry Creek. They also have a passion for the four legged canine species, which is apparent upon entering the tasting room. Three for three before we even take a sip!
Mr. Frick, he’s a smart cookie. Temp, climate, and the touranie in his neck of the valley are very hospitable to Rhone styled grapes. Trust me, I love my Russian River Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, but I squealed with joy when I saw Cinsaut, Carignane, Grenache blanc, Counoise. Often many of these varietals are used for blending. Mr Frick though, he pays some serious homage to the granddaddy French grapes he grows (the Cargnane being over 100 year old vines). There is the C cube, a blend of Cinsaut, Carignane and Counoise. I expect to fall in love with this just because it’s made of three grapes, whose names I can barely pronounce. But, it’s the Grenache that melts my heart. Oooe La, la. People in Paris would do Le Freak over this wine.
Alas we leave. Sun is shining, the weather is sweet now. Geyserville or bust. Giddy with love from Frick. There was no intention, there was no purpose in the purchase of a sole bottle of 2007 Grenache, until our little dancing feet are firmly squared at a Diavola table (http://www.diavolapizzeria.com/). Being a corn fed- Mid-Western girl, I want MEAT. We’ve had lots of wine today, sustenance is key. Without looking at each other, tasting partner and I grumble “look at the Cicciona”. House smoked Pork Belly, Sausage, Beef Brisket, Roasted Red Pepper and Mozzarella. We grab the wine from the car, almost absent-mindedly. Again, without intention or purpose. Just a red to match our pizza. The day pretty much ends here –like that old Craig Mack song, here comes a brand new flavor in your ear. The clouds parted. Rainbow is near. I click my heels. I must be in heaven.
This wine is perfect for uber-fatty meat delight pizza. Acid, spice, a hint of sweetness to cut the fat. OUT of this world. My tasting partner is a chemist for Gallo. Let’s just say he knows his shiz-nit. His reaction was the same. We are both gloating about our little match. It was enthrall and the perfect ending to a perfect day. Grenache +Cicciona = Pure love!